It’s Not Dead Yet – Fixing the Onkyo TX-SR606 HDMI board

In July 2007, I was in the market for a surround-sound receiver with HDMI support. My research led me to purchase Onkyo receiver, model TX-SR605, from the now-defunct Circuit City. I was very happy with the receiver until 9 months later when it decided that of the two possible operational states, “off” and “on”, it preferred “off” 100% of the time.

It was still under warranty. Circuit City had me bring it to a nearby Onkyo-certified repair center. And there it sat for two months awaiting a part, “Micro Q701”, which never came.

I called Onkyo and raised a storm, and they somehow miraculously found and shipped the part overnight. But it didn’t fix the problem.

After considerable badgering, Onkyo swapped out the 605 with the next model up, the TX-SR606. The TX-SR606 has worked well for the past five years.

This month, we purchased our first Blu-Ray player. While playing our very first Blu-Ray, the receiver would frequently drop the HDMI signal and black out. No Signal, no good.

Apparently the TX-SR606 is notorious for its shoddy HDMI switching board. The internet is full of complaints and some DIY instructions for attempting repairs.  The following sites were very helpful:

As with so many consumer electronics failures, bad capacitors are to blame.

I researched which capacitors to purchase and settled on this item at DigiKey. I needed 5 but bought 10 just in case. The total order was $4.85 and the shipping cost more than the parts.

The parts arrived yesterday, and last night I worked on the receiver.

Of all the repairs I’ve attempted, this was on the easy side. The receiver’s case was easy to remove. The HDMI board was right on top and easily accessible. I was thankful for the tips I’d read regarding disconnecting the ribbon cables without damaging them by pushing down on the white connector.

The work took just about two hours from start to finish. Here are pictures of the modified board with the new capacitors highlighted (click to enlarge).

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I tested the Onkyo after re-assembly, and the fix seems to have worked. I successfully played 15 minutes of a Blu-Ray without any dropouts.

There remains a weird problem whereby occasionally, when switching HDMI channels, the screen takes on a purple hue.

As a work around, switching back and forth, or going into the receiver’s Options menu and back, seems to clear it up. I’ll have to research this problem separately.

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Published by

Larry Silverman

Larry Silverman is a father and husband, software developer, small-business owner, DIY tinkerer, occasional musician, continuous learner, free thinker, despiser of yard work and comma abuser.

20 thoughts on “It’s Not Dead Yet – Fixing the Onkyo TX-SR606 HDMI board”

  1. Very interesting article. I had the same experience, the HDMI began failing as soon as I connected it to a new blu ray player. I have just received the parts for it and will attempt the same repair on the SR606.

      1. I have a 608 and I cannot get video or audio from the HDMI ports on the back. The AUX on the front works fine which itself goes through the HDMI board. Could my problem still be with the capacitiers?
        No one seems to mention the 608 its always the 606!
        Anyone help me on this.?
        Simon

      2. Sorry for the late reply, Simon, and also sorry to say I’m not sure how best to help you on this one. I’d be googling just like you have.

      3. Thx Larry. It seems my problem is simply I am trying to send the signal too far to the projector. I need to use cat5 cable and a boosting system like hdbase t. Shorter hdmi leads work fine. The odd thing is that the aux input appears to command a stronger source signal as it goes through the unit as aux type devices are not expected to produce strong signals. Anyway, I’m sorted now thanks again. Simon

  2. Hi guys – i just tried this exercise over the weekend however only a couple of the hdmi connections started working again. Some are still out. Does anyone know which capicitors relate to which particular hdmi input?
    If possible, id like to only go in and mess around with the ones that are not working.

    Cheers,

    1. Hi, Damian. Sorry, I don’t know the answer to your question.

      I continue to have one HDMI port that occasionally has purple hues. So not 100% success, but I’ve prolonged the useful life by a year or so.

  3. Hi Damain, Just repaired mine yesterday, and all hdmi switching worked, but no onscreen display (OSD). took it apart again and noticed one capacitor on the bottom center of board had a broken lead. Replaced it and all works fine now. I would suggest you carefully inspect each capacitor you replaced with a good light. I used a metal dental tool to check that there was a good connection to the circuit board

  4. Hi Larry, I had the same problem, soldered new capacitors and perhaps you can advise on what to do next – my receiver won’t start. Meaning it starts, probably does a self-check that fails, and restarts in an endless loop.

    Wondering if it’s worth fixing at this point or just buying a new HDMI board.

    Thanks in advance !
    JD

    1. Sounds like you might have introduced a short somewhere. Check for solder where it shouldn’t be. Also make sure your capacitors were installed with the correct polarity. Direction matters with some caps.

    2. I’m getting only partial success. My HDMI board “works”, but refuses to handshake at high refresh rates. Will not do 1920×1080@60 rather @30. The cable box works, but it is less than 1080p.

      I can visibly see another blown cap underneath the HDMI daughter board on attached board. Not sure if replacing that one would help.

      1. Sorry for the late reply. Do you have high quality HDMI cables? You might try buying the best Amazon Basics high speed HDMI cable for a few bucks.

  5. I brought my receiver to a repair shop I had used before. He fixed the board, and tested it in front me. I brought it home and hooked up the HDMI’s for my cable box, PS3 & PS4 and didn’t get any signal. So I brought it back to the shop, and he plugged in the HDMI’s and it worked. Again, thinking that everything is fine, I brought it home and sure enough, no signal AGAIN!

    Any thoughts as to why it works when hooked up at the shop and not at home?

  6. Hi Larry, I know this is an old post, but if you can help I’d really appreciate it. Before I found out your website, I broke off one of the darker grey capacitors that have “470 Tz” writing on top of it. you can see it on your first top pic (total 3 of them, but I broke one of them by mistake). Is there a way you could point out which part number from digikey I should buy? Im not knowledgeable enough to know that, but Im pretty sure I can use soldering iron carefully.
    Thanks in advance.
    David

    1. Hi, David. In my picture, the capacitor says 470 Tp, not Tz. Now that it’s broken off, do you see any other writing on it? I did some searching, and I do find some 470 micro-Farad “TP” capacitors in Digikey’s inventory, but without more specs or numbers, I feel a little shy recommending you buy any of them. If it were me, I’d want to confirm the capacitance with a digital multimeter. If I could confirm it was a 470 micro-farad cap, I’d measure the diameter and try to buy one of identical size and especially identical spacing between the two leads. I’d buy the highest voltage rated one I could find because I don’t know what kind of voltages are likely to be applied. Those three dark gray ones look a little beefier than the others, so perhaps it’s higher rated. Also, caps are usually polarized — like a battery, it matters which direction the cap goes. Hopefully you took some pictures before you started so you can put it in the right way.

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