It’s Not Dead Yet – Replacing an Auria EQ276W Power Supply

TL;DR – If you need a replacement power supply for the Auria EQ276W monitor:

  • The manufacturer, EQD, has apparently declared bankruptcy.
  • One reader purchased this replacement by Upbright, but hasn’t reported back as to how it worked out. From the description and reviews, it seems like a good choice.
  • A couple readers of this blog have found this T-Power power supply on Amazon. Be warned, however, that this model is rated for only 5A, which is less than the 6A factory power supply. Readers have reported it works. One reader received a defective unit, and T-Power demonstrated great support and replaced it with a working unit.
  • If you’re electronically inclined, you can purchase any properly rated power supply and solder the old power cable onto the appropriate leads. You’re looking for a 24 volt supply that can handle over 6 amps. Make sure the supply has adequate heat sinks or cooling to handle that much power. Here is one power supply a reader has successfully adapted.

On to the story…

In July 2012, I read Jeff Atwood’s post, The IPS LCD Revolution. Super-high-resolution 27″, no-name computer monitors from Korea for under $400? Yes, please!

The local Microcenter had just one EQD Auria EQ276W left, but it was “open-box”. Someone had returned it. I had them plug it in to prove it worked. I negotiated a bit extra off the already-reduced price, a return guarantee and a 1-year warranty from date of purchase, and took it home.

The monitor expired nine months after its warranty.

When I’d plug in the monitor, the green power supply light would light up, the monitor would come on for an instant, then go off. No amount of fiddling could keep the monitor powered up.

My suspicion was that the power supply was dead. It’s usually the power supply, and within the power supply, it’s usually the capacitors that fail (see my post, It’s Not Dead Yet – Fixing the Onkyo TX-SR606 HDMI board).

Here’s the power supply’s badge. Make/model is “Coming Data LP-2460”.


The power supply puts out 24V at 6A through a 4-pin round connector. You can see the “pin-out” diagram above the “MADE IN CHINA” text. Two positive leads on the left, two negative on the right.

I tested the power supply with a multi-meter and it seemed to still be putting out 24V, but I know that under load, it probably wouldn’t be able to sustain the amps. If I’d had more time, I might have put together some kind of testing circuit to see if I could determine if the supply would fail under load. My discretionary time is limited, so I instead decided to throw money at the problem and get a new one.

I found a couple of sources online that wanted $70 for an exact replacement power supply. $70 is highway robbery for a monitor power supply, IMHO. So I took a flyer on this $30 one from Amazon.

I should not have bought the power supply without seeing a pin-out diagram. Turns out the replacement’s pins are wired differently. They’re off by 90-degrees, meaning the top two pins are positive and the bottom two are negative. That’s a non-starter, quite literally.

The new power supply was also quite a bit lighter than the old one, which is a red flag. It doesn’t contain as much metal to dissipate heat like the old power supply. This could mean even if I get it working, it could burn out or become a fire hazard in short order.

I sat on the problem for a couple weeks until I had some time off work.

I called EQD at their support number and a very helpful tech took my information and said he’d inquire to see if they could send me a replacement power supply out of warranty. So that’s now working in the background.

I decided to take apart the new power supply to see if I might be able to rewire it to correct the pin-out. Nope. There were just two leads in the connector wire, red and black, to feed all four pins. The red would forever be wired to the top two pins, and the black to the bottom two.

It occurred to me that I might be able to re-use the connector wire from the old power supply. I snipped the old connector wire off the old power supply and compared the wiring. Again, just two wires, red and black. But in the old wire, the top left pin didn’t appear to be connected to red. It wasn’t connected to anything I could discern. This was worrisome, as it might mean it was the wire itself that failed. But given the wire hasn’t had any significant stress since I bought the monitor, it seemed unlikely the wire would be faulty. More likely the monitor was pulling all 24V from a single pair of pins.

I soldered the old wire to the new power supply and put everything back together.

Lo and behold, the monitor powered up!

My victory was soured shortly after by several issues.

  1. The new power supply is HOT! Like, “can’t touch it”-hot. Not great, and not worth the fire hazard.
  2. The monitor now hums loudly, which it didn’t before. There’s noise being induced into the monitor. Even with the monitor’s volume set to zero, it hums.
  3. The monitor supports a maximum native resolution of 2560×1440 pixels, but only when connected to a source using DisplayPort or DVI-D Dual-Link connectors. The new laptop I just bought has neither of these kinds of connectors, only HDMI and VGA. So I can’t use the monitor to its fullest potential and instead I’m forced to use up-scaled 1920×1080. I’ve tried some tricks to set custom resolutions using the Intel HD Graphics 4400 configuration app, to no avail. Yuck.

So, an incomplete victory and a long way to go to get this monitor working again. I’ll put the monitor aside for now until either EQD comes through with an OEM replacement power supply, I find another 24V 6A well-designed power supply, or I decide to suck it up and buy an OEM replacement for $70.

Update: June 26, 2014

I ran with the new/modified power supply for a few hours today. It started emitting a toxic burning plastic smell, so I unplugged it. Next stop? The trash.

EQD called back yesterday to tell me they would sell me a new power supply. $45.00 plus $12.35 shipping. The new supply will be rated for 6.25 amps instead of 6.0, so it’s a bit beefier than the original power supply. I took the deal, as I can only find exact OEM replacements on eBay and elsewhere for over $70.

I (somehow) found this 113-page test report for the Coming Data LP line of power supplies. Could be useful if anyone else wants to take a swing at fixing their broken power supply.

Update: July 22, 2014

The replacement power supply arrived last week and the monitor is back in business! The power adapter runs relatively cool, and there’s no hum.

Additionally, I bought my way out of the predicament with my laptop not being able to drive the monitor to its full resolution with this StarTech USB 3.0 to DisplayPort external video card. Not the ideal solution, but as close as I could come without returning the laptop which I otherwise like.

Update: September 18, 2014 

A reader let me know that the (877) 375-1065 phone number for EQD is no longer working. I tried the number myself and confirmed it.

Update: October 2, 2014 

Great sleuthing by an anonymous commenter! The number to reach EQD directly is (949) 246-5270. Guess they got tired of paying the bills from the toll-free number with all of us dissatisfied owners calling.

Update: June 18, 2015

It appears EQD filed for bankruptcy on September 25, 2014. I guess there’s no profit in replacing burned out power supplies. QED, EQD.

Update: June 23, 2015

More praise coming in for the T-Power replacement. A reader received a defective power supply via Amazon, and T-Power replaced it with a working one.

Update: June 23, 2016

My own Auria is still chugging away happily on the replacement power supply I received from EQD before they filed bankruptcy. I’m writing on it right now.

Published by

Larry Silverman

Larry Silverman is a father and husband, software developer, small-business owner, DIY tinkerer, occasional musician, continuous learner, free thinker, despiser of yard work and comma abuser.

70 thoughts on “It’s Not Dead Yet – Replacing an Auria EQ276W Power Supply”

  1. Thank you for a very informative post, as it’s helped me to also get a replacement power supply for my Auria EQ276W which has been sitting idle for months.

    1. Nunya Bidness: Another reader found a working number for EQD. Check back on this post for the new number.

      1. Thanks.. i went with a third party power supply for a bit more money, it seems to be working for now.

      2. Would you please share the make and model of the power supply? It’d be great to have another model that’s known to work.

      3. Interesting. That wasn’t on Amazon when I was looking. Someone is stepping up to fill a need.

  2. huge breakthrough on this, apparently the support number is not working but i found their direct line… its 949.246.5270

    the guy said they don’t know what the deal is with the support number but to send a check for $57.25 to

    EQD Corporation – ATTN: Steve Woo
    3309 E. Miraloma Ave. Suite 107
    Anaheim, CA 92806

    state the model number and what you need and how many.

    Hope this helps others in the same boat.

    1. So I got the new power supply but monitor still won’t turn on, opened it up and the video driver board is completely fried. The number on the sticker is HQ-LED28-1B, and is completely fried, and looks just like this one Anybody else have similar issues or know where to get a replacement? that ebay listing is for HQ-LED28-1A, and I don’t know if the “A” version will work, i’m going to try and call Auria to see if they have anything to say. Gotta tell you, this happened when I was not at home, and this thing could have easily caught on fire… this is ridiculous.

      1. Sorry to hear about the board. If you want to share a link to a picture of what it looks like, I’d be happy to append it to this blog post. Might help some others.

        Tough to speculate on what may or may not cause a fire in an electronic device. We all get upset when our electronics fail before we’re quite done using them. The fact is that it didn’t catch on fire, and let’s be thankful for that.

      2. So I found a post on their facebook page that says this…

        AURIA HDTVs and LCD Monitors Andy, we have a replacement board for $25.80, which includes shipping. The board is warranted for 90 days. Please call Alain at 909-614-9512 if you want the board.

        here is a link to the photos

  3. My Auria EQ276W is 2.5 years old now. Never had any issue until last week. Screen was flickering so I turned it off but couldn’t turn it back on. After unplugging power cord and restarting my PC, the screen didn’t flicker anymore but it was noticeably dimmed (like half of my normal setting). I tried to adjust the brightness but despite increasing or decreasing it, the brightness looked the same. My power brick would also produce high pitch hissing noise (not sure how to better describe it) when the screen is showing a lot of white (such as Word documents and website). When I close the doc or browser, that hissing noise almost goes away. Do you think these problems are caused by power supply? Would like to have second opinion before shelling out $60. Thanks in advance, Tommy

    1. Hi, Tommy. Did the power brick hiss before? Or are you just noticing it now because you’re looking for causation? If you can for sure correlate the start of the hissing with the display issues, then it’s likely the power supply is the cause. Good luck!

      1. No, I am pretty sure it never did that til now. When I first heard the hiss, I thought it’s coming from the monitor screen. After searching on google and found comments about people having issue with power supply, then I realized it’s actually coming from the power supply. The hiss gets more audible the closer I get to it. Not being able to adjust brightness while the monitor is still functioning is where I feel uncertain about replacing power supply. My initial impression was something in the circuit board just went out…but I have no knowledge about this electrical stuff. Buying a new 1440P monitor is gonna cost me $400 so I am going to try a new power supply first. Worth a shot. Thanks, Tommy

      2. I contacted the 877 number and a lady took my contact info. A day later, Alain from Auria/EQD called me back. I explained the problem to him and he said 90% chance that it’s the power supply. I sent in my check and I received a new power supply a few days later.

        I decided to give the old power supply another try after not using it for a week. The LED light at the brick didn’t come on (it used to power the monitor before I put it away for a week). I guess it’s now completely dead.

        I connect the new power supply and the monitor works as normal. Alain from Auria/EQD recommends that power supply should be placed on the table (behind the monitor), not on the floor. And do not plug the monitor’s power supply into a UPS (The output from most UPS is not a pure 60 cycle 120 VAC sine-wave — this can overdrive the input circuits on the EQ276W power supply and result in over heating)

      3. That’s very interesting about the UPS. I’ve not heard anything like that before. It’s also unfortunate, because if you’re a UPS user, in the event of a power outage, you’d kinda like to be able to shut down your computer gracefully (assuming you don’t have auto-shutdown software), and you’d need your monitor to do so.

        If you’re using a laptop like I am, no big deal, you can shut down from the laptop screen. But if not, you could be in for some fun. You’d have to quickly plug the monitor into the UPS just to shut things down gracefully, then unplug it.

        In a laptop configuration, I never plug my monitors into the battery-backed side of the UPS because it’s just unnecessary. I use a UPS for things like external hard drive enclosures that I don’t want to lose power suddenly. I plug other devices into the non-battery-backed-up side of the UPS for powerline conditioning and surge protection.

        This particular Auria monitor draws 3 amps at 110V AC (in the US), which equates to around 330 watts. That’s a heavy load to add to that of a tower PC to place on a consumer-grade UPS. It will severely shorten the amount of time you have to shut things down gracefully, if not overstress the UPS in the first place. There’s a good argument to be made for buying a more energy efficient monitor if you’re depending on a UPS.

  4. The 877 does work, you just have to wait for the call routing to work. It is for Auria.TV, the people who made the monitor in the first place. I would hope they would be able to supply the replacement power supply that obviously was poorly made. I will be calling them in the morning to request a replacement obviously. Hopefully the replacement power supply doesn’t catch fire like mine did. At first I thought the monitor was burning up, but it turned out to be the power supply behind the monitor. I have to wonder if this power supply was ever recalled here in the U.S. since they are not supposed to do that. They have all of the normal labels on the cover: UL, FCC, and CE. Obviously this power supply was not put through the testing protocols that UL requires here in this country. Anyone who finds this blog will have already had their power supplies fail. Unfortunately, we cannot warn others to disconnect their PSUs when not using their monitors. This unit is definitely a safety hazard to the general public who purchased these monitors at MicroCenter or other consumer electronics stores in the United States.

  5. I recently picked up this monitor from a work colleague for $80 with the bad PSU… so i decided to do what every weird person like me does and crack open the old supply,
    Low and behold you were correct, it was a bad capacitor on the 24v side, (pregnant) so i drove on down to my local R/S and picked up a replacement it was a 1000uF 35V electrolytic, cost me 1.99 ( i bought 2 since there were 2 caps one was ok) i replaced them both plugged it back up and KERCHOW! perfect working monitor.

    (i did something similar to this with a 42 inch samsung TV someone gave it to me because it would not turn on… $5 and change later i have a perfect TV that has been flawless ever since! If you are NOT scared to get involved recapping is probably the most cost effective fix for many problems.

    the link to the inspection looked different to my supply but it is easy to spot a busted capacitor.

    so just thought I would drop a line here letting you know!

  6. So, my power supply finally failed on me today and I just called the newest number listed here (949.246.5270). I was informed that they are all out of the LP-2460 power supplies and do not think they will be able to get anymore. They recommended checking out other retailers and I proceeded to order the T-Power suggested here.

    They did mention as a safety tip to put the power supply in a well ventilated area to avoid excess heat and reduce chances of failure. My monitor is on a suspended stand with the power supply safely secured to a desk below with nothing around it, clearly following their recommended practice. Apparently it was just very prone to failure. Hopefully the 3rd party supply is better as I may have been lucky to be sitting at the desk to unplug it right at the point of failure and avoid a possible fire. A good reminder to be careful with sketchy power supplies.

  7. I saw this last fall but never got around to ordering it. Now I see that EQD is not getting anymore, and I cannot seem to find the tpower alternative listed above. Where can I currently get a replacement power supply for this monitor.

  8. Looks like the tpowers were back in stock. Few bucks more but EQD never got back to me, so I just went with the tpower. Hope it works.

  9. Thank you for posting this, all great information! So I just want a sanity check before going down the path of ordering a power supply: when I hook the power supply up to the monitor first, then plug the power supply into the outlet, the power supply lights up green, and the monitor flashes on, then goes out and nothing comes up on screen, but the power supply light stays lit. Is this a problem with the power supply or the main board on the monitor?

    1. That’s exactly the behavior mine exhibited. I should have written that up in the original blog post, and I’ll add it now. Granted, your problem could be different than mine. But I can say with confidence, the symptoms match.

      1. Thanks for clearing that up and for the fast reply. I checked it again last night before ordering the T-Power power supply: if I plug the power supply in by itself (no monitor) the green light comes on full and stays that way. If I then plug the monitor in, the monitor power led flashes briefly as described and then goes dark, but I also noticed the power supply led dims way down to look barely lit and stays that way until I unplug the power supply from the outlet.

        I will post back with results.

      2. Just got my T-Power PSU, plugged it in and resurected my long dead Auria! Thank you so much for creating this blog entry and sharing your finds.

        Just a quick note: the PSU T-Power sent me is a 5A unit instead of the original 6A PSU.

      3. Hmm, the 5A thing is a little concerning. I see now that the T-Power unit on Amazon is marketed as delivering only 5A. When EQD sent me my replacement, they sent a 6.25A unit.

        I hope it works out.

  10. So my PSU finally died, so what I did was order a commercial PSU and snip off the connector and wire it up to the commercial 24V – 15AMP PSU (overkill and a bit loud)… but works much cooler than the original PSU and will probably last forever since it has serious cooling… don’t recommend it if you are not good at electric wiring…

    1. That’s an excellent solution, and that power supply you found is cheaper than the other 3rd party ones we’re seeing on Amazon. The one thing that makes me nervous is the 15 amps. That’s a heavy hitter! You might consider putting a 6-amp fuse in line to put a ceiling on the amperage equal to the original spec. At least that way, if some other component shorts out, you won’t send a full 15 amps through the monitor. The monitor might have a similar protection already built in, but who knows? Fuses are cheap.

      1. Funny you mentioned that… so since the 15AMP unit is a little louder than the wife likes, I ordered a 6.5amp one without a fan… I will update on how that one works when I have it installed… the cost was only $20.

  11. hey guys, just wanted to give a heads up:

    first, larry, thanks for making/updating this post. nobody seemed to have the answer to this.

    second, the new EQD number does NOT work. I tried calling many, many times, and I was always met with the same “this caller has a voicemail that has not been set up.” I turned to the t-power power supply on amazon and the monitor is working again.

    for anyone who might be using it in a home music studio setup: i’m not sure how the noise is getting through the DVI-D cord through to an external USB hub, but it is. i have the monitor plugged into a separate power outlet than my computer or my hub, and some noise is still leaking through. you can’t hear it with sound on now, but that’s going to have to be something i figure out going forward.

    1. sorry, probably also should have said that i have a USB audio interface being run to my studio speakers. the noise started up only once i plugged the auria back in through the T-power PSU and would come on/off as i turned the monitor on/off.

      1. Hi, darrell. In a past life I did a fair bit of home and studio recording. You’re describing the symptoms of a classic ground loop. Try googling variations of “buzz” and “ground loop” and “power supply” and you’ll find no end to the advice and ways to mitigate it.

  12. Anyone try any of the generic 24v 6.5a Power Supplies like this:

    It’s only $15.

    I had a PS go bad back in 8/2014. Now it died again. Opened it up and it smells fried.

    Called EQ, and they told me that they don’t have any PS left, that I would need to check the internet. They said 6A or higher.

    The EQ276 that I have still working is using a 6.25A PS.

  13. I ended up getting a Cosel PBA150F-24. 24V 6.5A Power Supply. Mounting it in an old Antec Plastic HD Enclosure that I had. Seems to be working so far. Cost, $20.

    1. just as a follow up, I’ve done a search on eBay for “Auria EQ276W power supply” and get a lot of unrelated stuff, and since I am ‘electrical challenged’ I don’t want to have to resort to soldering or anything related to that type of solution.. I have been looking at the links posted above, but if anyone has found another solution that works I would appreciate the info

      like other posts I have seen, my problem is (and I cracked open the power supply), I plug it in and the green light comes on for a split second, the monitor comes on for a split second, and then nothing…. green light off, monitor off

      1. Would love a response, as this just happened to my monitor this morning and I’d love to not have to buy a new one.

  14. well, I went ahead and ordered and it arrived today and…. its not working for me… I tried plugging in the original power supply again and it did the “green light on, monitor blinks on for a split second, and then powers off” routine so I know the monitor isn’t dead and have sent an email with a couple of picture to T Power and am waiting for a response from them so I really don’t know what is going on at this point…. there are 8 people who posted on that product page that it worked for them… but not for me….

    1. That’s a bummer. I’d definitely try exchanging it for another. Maybe the unit they sent you was bad.

  15. UPDATE: ok, I sent T-Power a detailed email last week (6/19) regarding the power supply I received not working – I included pictures and a detailed explanation of what was happening with the original OEM power supply (one of the pictures I sent showed the pin outs for the original PS)

    I received a nice response (6/19) from T-Power and they said they would send me out a replacement power supply and emailed me a shipping label to send back the first one

    I received the replacement power supply yesterday (6/22) and didn’t get around to unpacking it and connecting it to my monitor last night and the replacement power supply works perfectly!!!!!!

    so we have a winner with T-Power, and they have excellent customer support!!

    and for those who need a replacement power supply, here is what I ordered:

    and again, thank you Larry for having this blog which completely helped me wade my way thru the murky field of power supplies out there!!!!

    1. Awesome outcome! And you’re welcome. I find it very gratifying that so many people have found this year-old post of mine useful.

  16. just to let you all know… the generic 24v 6.5amp PSU from ebay is still working… and it’s been almost a whole year… it’s quiet and runs much cooler than the original PSU, I have it on the floor… you guys can tweet me @crankmosh if you need advice on how to wire one up to the original cable…

  17. Thanks for this site, great info. I fixed it by buying a EFL-2202W power supply and just de-soldering the connector and soldering in my Auria connector. Some people report that EFL-2202W connector works as is but mine didn’t. Cost $22.

  18. So, I’m crying here, it looks like I’ve got this problem. So, if I buy the one from Amazon, will that 5 Amp output be a problem? I’m not technical, so I worry about fire. Thank you so much for your article. You rock.

      1. Hi, Elizabeth,
        No, I haven’t heard of that one. But it sounds (from the reviews) like this is a viable replacement. Follow the advice and keep the power brick exposed to air so it can stay cool.
        Good luck!

  19. I used this generic power supply from Amazon, and it seems to work well

    Singpad New Style 240W Power Supply Transformer 24V 10A

    Had to snip off the cord/connector from the dead power supply for re-use, and also supply my own power cord. It’s a little ugly sitting on my desk, but I think I will mount it to the back of the monitor when I get a chance.

    It’s silent (no fan), and barely gets warm.

    1. Hi, Ed. Thanks for the comment. That unit looks like a good choice for the DIY crowd. Good price, too.

      It’s a 10A supply (which is fine, the monitor will only draw the amperage it needs) so it should have no trouble supplying what the monitor needs.

      I like the metal chassis, which hopefully will dissipate the heat better than a plastic case. Better for longevity.

      If you do choose to mount it on the back of the monitor, I’d advise doing what you can to (a) not put it on a warm spot on the monitor and (b) see what you can do to give it some space away from the monitor back. It’d be a shame to cut down on the heat radiation of the metal enclosure.

  20. My beautiful Aura stopped working last week. The power supply always ran hot and with some quick googling I found this and though “yeah, it makes sense the power supply would burn out first.” especially when I popped the case apart and smelled the acrid burning electronics smell. I ordered a power supply on Amazon that matched the pinout of he original, but it doesn’t bring the beast back to life, like I was hoping. Instead, when I go to plug the power supply into the monitor I hear a noise like an electrical arch and the power supply shuts off until I unplug it (both the new power supply and the old one act this way). I have disassembled the monitor and examined the control board and I don’t see any burn marks or swollen capacitors. Do you think I got a bad power supply or is it the monitor’s control board ?

    1. My guess is that the pin-out (the mapping of what voltage goes to each pin of the plug) is not the same as what the monitor requires. This happened to me as well with the one I bought. I wrote about it in this blog post. Your choices here are to either return the power supply and buy one recommended by the commenters on this post, or if you’re handy, do what I did: solder the old cable to the power supply board.

      1. The pinout is correct, confirmed by DMM. I did kinda choose the bargain brand power supply instead of getting a more expensive alternative. I guess I’ll return it and try the one wepleinair recommended. Thank you both for you responses! There is so little information about this monitor online and it has been such a great monitor for me, besides this current issue.

      2. Bummer. Just out of curiosity, what’s the power rating of the one you bought? Can you provide a link here so future readers know which unit to avoid? Thanks.

        I also found very little info about this monitor online. It was a one-off Korean import that happened to catch the attention of a famous blogger, which is how I found out about it. I started this page in hopes of helping others like me, and apparently it worked!

  21. IT LIVES !!!!!

    wepleeinair you are awesome! Larry, your input has also been invaluable! I purchased the adapter that wepleinair recommended and my beautiful beast lives again!

    For reference, this is the adapter that I bought the first time.

    It was rated at 5amps, but had reviews stating it had been used for this particular Auria and I was optimistic. The main reason I purchased this Auria in the first place is because I wanted a bigger 1440p display on the cheap. I should have known that when it comes to power supplies, don’t go cheap.

  22. What has died in mine is the starter circuit for the backlight and I suspect the same is true for MANY others. The PSU buzzes and whines but no screen just a flicker, I have a second monitor and swapping the PSU to this one fires it right up. A troubleshooting tip to detect a dead backlight on ANY backlit monitor – use a flashlight! Get a good one and get up close, do you see video? If so it’s the backlight! I have a replacement from Amazon on the way and will be back in business soon – woohoo!

    1. I’m 99% sure that’s what’s wrong with mine too – my backlight dims to about 50% after a couple hours of (i’m guessing) warming up …

      What back light did you order?

  23. I found a Auria EQ276W at the local landfill. I guess someone gave up on it. I opened it up and saw the HQ-LED-1B board with an exploded capacitor. Unfortunately, it looks like it got really hot before it popped. There’s an area on the board that’s burnt. Good thing fiberglass isn’t flammable.

    I tried replacing all the capacitors, and I soldered a jumper across an area that looked like the PC board trace was missing. I can’t tell how many layers are in the board, but it didn’t work. I tried cleaning the burnt area away, but it’s probably too far gone.

    I’ve been having trouble finding this board. I tried eBay, Amazon and shopjimmy.
    I saw an expired listing from a few years ago, Does anyone know of a source for this board?


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